Tagawa Gardens Roses
For over 25 years Tagawa's has carried some of the finest roses, providing the best blooming plants available to grow in our metro area. This is the place where you can discover unusual as well as the newest varieties of roses ready for your garden!

"Night of Wine & Roses"
April 18, 2008
5-7 PM ONLY
We're busy growing some spectacular and beautiful roses for you this year; but, they are not ready yet!
Join us on April 18, from 5-7 pm - the first day you can purchase roses for your garden at 20% OFF!
NEW THIS YEAR - entire store is 20% OFF* for these two hours only!
Looking for an introduction to the New Roses for 2008? Join Lynn, our Rose Department Supervisor and Certified Colorado Nursery Professional, on Saturday, April 12 as she presents information and photos of the new roses for this year.
Lynn and her staff, will take care of your rose needs for our 2008 season. Visit with Lynn and her rose staff about all of your rose bush concerns and questions on varieties.
New Varieties for 2008
(AARS) ALL AMERICA ROSE SELECTION WINNERS
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Dream Come True™ Grandiflora Rose, Medium tall
Yellow w/ ruby red blush
Pointed buds, 5” blooms 40 petals, Long stems, Matte green foliage
Mild tea rose fragrance Full sun Dream Come True is a stunning sight of catchy colors, which lures the likes of even non-rose lovers to its side. This rose produces flawlessly formed yellow blossoms, blushed with ruby-red at the tips, all set amongst abundant matte green foliage. The big, bushy vigorous plant yields long-stemmed, long-lived blooms with mild tea fragrance, making it lovely in the landscape and a great choice for bouquets. |
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Mardi Gras
Performed exceptionally in one of the most rigorous rose trials in the world. Shows the same impressive vigor and disease resistance of its AARSwinning parent, Singin’ in the Rain. Apricot orange buds slowly open to reveal bright pink and yellow blooms with a yellow base. Truly reminiscent of the carefree days of Mardi Gras, this new Floribunda has a large cluster of flowers with bright yellow, orange and pink hues. As a strong repeat bloomer, with a good fragrance, Mardi Gras will likely become one of your garden favorites. In form, this rose would be excellent as either a specimen or a small hedge, and is very heat resistant. |
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Bailey's Nursery Easy Elegance Series®
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Paint the Town
Garden Path Series®
Clusters of red hybrid tea-shaped blooms that carpet this rose from head to foot.Glossy, dark green foliage highlights the flower effect all season long. Even spreading-to-mounded habit is well suited to container gardening.Highly disease-resistant. |

Pink Gnome
Garden Path Series®
Pink Gnome rose, Rosa 'BAIpome' (PP16,602), as the name suggests, is a tough rose that is small and compact, with a wonderfully tight, round habit. Pink buds open to delightful, light pink, cup-shaped flowers with white centers. Highly disease-resistant. |

Sunrise Sunset
Garden Path Series®
Stunning blend, with bright fuchsia-pink petals, blending to apricot neat the centers. Blue-green foliage is disease-resistant on this everblooming shrub rose. Its dense, spreading habit makes it an ideal ground cover and is also well suited to mass plantings. |

My Hero
Lifestyle Garden Series ®
Self-cleaning rose that has bright red blooms, which turn to deep pink as they mature. Massive displays and continuous blooms are quite attractive against the satiny, light-green foliage. The My Hero rose has good resistance to blackspot and mildew and is crown hardy. |

Grandma's Blessing
Garden Art Series®
Resembles a hybrid tea with large, full, dusty-pink blossoms. This beauty is so sweet it is named after Margaret ‘Grandma’ Bailey. Grandma’s Blessing has a symmetrical, vase-shaped form and dark-green, disease-resistant foliage. Stunning color combines beautifully with many perennials and also makes an elegant low hedge. |

Kiss Me
Garden Art Series®
One of the most fragrant roses in the Easy Elegance Collection. Kiss Me bears clusters of large, double, clear pink blooms, reminiscent of English roses. It flowers all season, and is especially attractive in the perennial border. The highly disease-resistant foliage adds to its appeal as a cut flower. |
Click
here for a complete list of our over 200 varieties of roses
This list is for the convenience of our visitors living in Denver and the surrounding metro area. We are unable to deliver our roses outside the southeastern Denver Metro area or out of the country.
Our availability changes by the hour,
so please use this list for reference only.
Our
Specialties Include:
Rose care tips under water conservation

Roses like Hybrid Tea, Floribundas and English should be grouped together in their own garden bed- not placed randomly in you landscape. These beds should first be amended with compost, aged manure, DRIED grass, leaf material or a combination of all.
A bed that is mainly clay soil, these amendments improve air circulation in the soil, drainage, root development and speeds up absorption. Prepare at a rate of one part amendment to two parts clay soil and only be concerned with the top 6-8”.
A fast draining sandy bed needs compost at a one to one ratio to help retain moisture and improve fertility. Use only compost and aged manure in the sandy soil bed. If possible, prep the beds in the fall for a more thorough mingling of compost and soil.
By planting the graft of the rose 3” below the soil line in Colorado, we add protection from our change of season temperature fluctuations. Grouping roses together with similar moisture requirements helps you direct your water to where it really needs to be and spares the other, drought tolerant areas of the landscape from needless, frequent watering. If at all possible, place in a location where they will benefit from all morning sun followed by afternoon shade to slow moisture consumption and evaporation. The grouping technique should also be applied to perennials, flowering shrubs and annuals.
Add shredded or small chipped mulch to a depth of 3-4”. This aids in moisture retention and reduces the frequency of watering. It also improves the soil environment for good root system development. However, as the mulch breaks down, it may “tie up” or block the available nitrogen in the soil (a growth promoting nutrient). If increasingly yellowing of the new leaf material is noticed AND it is not due to incorrect watering practices, then it can be countered with a fertilizer high in nitrogen and low in phosphate and potassium. Use with caution as too much nitrogen can burn the roots if the concentration is too high for the moisture content of the area.
Alternatives to the mulch are low growing, drought tolerant shrubs and perennial ground covers. Contact your local garden center or county extension office to help you explore you options. Using drip irrigation, a soaker hose or a watering needle helps conserve water by channeling moisture directly to rose roots. If using a drip system or a soaker hose, apply moisture slower than the rate of run off while watering in a series of cycles often enough to moisten the top 4” of soil. Some drip systems can dispense water fairly quickly so observe how long it takes your system to do so and let this be a guide on how long to water the area.
To improve watering efficiency, bury the soaker hose under 3-4” of mulch. A watering needle is another efficient and more direct way to water wisely. Insert the needle no more than 4” into the soil and leave on in one spot for no LONGER than 1 minute in any one spot. Insert in areas outlining the plants branching diameter and apply 2-3 insertions for each rose bush depending upon its size. The plant will tell you when to water again when its youngest leaves show signs of limpness. Roses planted together should be watered as a group, not individually. Using the methods above can allow early evening watering so that moisture lingers in the soil longer to our plants benefit.
Consider incorporating hard working, beautiful roses like ‘Knock Out’, the ‘Morden’ roses or the ‘Flower carpet’ roses for durability, garden bed filler plants, borders or hedge plantings. After establishment, these and other shrub roses become fabulous, durable plants that come in a great array of colors, sizes and fragrances. Some even offer super fall color and rose hip display.
TAGAWA’S TOP 10 ASKED SPRING/SUMMER ROSE QUESTIONS
1. When should I prune my roses?
This depends upon elevation and exposure. In the Denver area you can begin pruning as soon as late April. Those living in more exposed areas or higher elevations should prune early to mid May. For once blooming roses prune after flowering. Be sure to seal cut canes that are larger than 1/8” with white household glue to deter cane borers.
2. I bought indoor grown roses from a greenhouse, can I plant them now?
Not quite. Potted roses grown in the greenhouse are use to a controlled environment. Before you plant, you need to increase their exposure to the outdoors over the course of 4-5 days to deter frost or burn damage. They should also be prune back by ½ their height so that new growth is instantly acclimated and root growth is stimulated.
3. How deep should I plant my roses?
In Colorado it is recommended to dig a hole deep enough so where the cane/trunk junction (“graft”) is 3” below the soil line. This is for added protection from our springtime freeze/thaw period. Ideally, a hole is 3 times larger in diameter than the rose container is recommended to promote good root growth.
4. How late in the season can I plant potted roses?
For the Denver area, we recommend mid October as the cut off period for planting roses to enjoy the following year. The cold weather for soil freezing purposes normally isn’t a constant until December. For higher elevations and more opened areas, it’s early September.
5. What is an “own root” rose?
This is a rose bush that is a rooted cutting from the parent plant or is a clone of the parent. If an own root rose suffers cane die back to the soil line but the roots have survived, it will usually send up new canes to become the rose bush you originally purchased.
6. What is a “grafted” rose?
A grafted or budded rose is a combination of the rose you see “fused” to the rootstock of a different, hardier rose. Many hybrid teas, grandifloras, floribunda and climbers are grafted. A grafted rose is not a bad thing. It is the area that is most likely to suffer winterkill from inadequate temperature protection. Some rose varieties perform better because they are grafted.
7. How often should I water my roses?
Soil compaction, temperature and site slope determine this. Roses love a good drink of water, just not so frequently. In summer, thoroughly water them with a soaker hose or drip system to where the top 4-6” of soil is moist. Wait until the newest rose leaves are slightly limp to the touch before repeating. In early spring and fall, water as above but allow the top 2” of soil to dry down.
8. How often do I fertilize?
New roses to the landscape, should not be fertilized to help adapt to the drainage rate of your amended soil and the exposure of the area. You need to see if the rose bush can naturally thrive there. Roses in the landscape 2 years or more can be fertilized about every 4 weeks during the growing season.
9. My roses won’t bloom, what’s wrong?
There are several possibilities: Frequent watering, over fertilized, not enough water, improper pruning, not enough sunlight, too hot or soil compaction.
10. What is the proper way to cut Hybrid Tea blooms?
Hybrid teas are all about big blooms. Pruning off a suitable length of cane (12”+) with the bloom promotes this. Beginning at where the blooming cane originates, work your way up to the second set of 5ct. leaflet leaves. Prune just above the second set (that points to you). If the second set faces toward the center of the plant, prune above the first set of 5 leaflets that face you.
Bonus: Can I grow roses in Colorado with the current watering restrictions? You can. Here’s how…
1. Planting groups of roses together makes watering them easier. This will be especially true of the hybrid tea types. Adequate amounts of mulch (3-4”) applied as a ground cover around the rose area aid in moisture retention and act as a weed barrier. Snake a soaker hose among your rose group then cover with the mulch to cut down on the watering time and to prevent water run off. Remember, as bark mulch breaks down it depletes the soil of nitrogen. Counter this with a high nitrogen fertilizer.
2. Location, location, location. Correctly amended soil that’s properly watered in a partly shaded area will be best for the hybrid tea, and English groups. Other types can endure sunnier, drier areas, but only after establishment.
3. Incorporate hardier, drought resistant shrub, old garden, Canadian and groundcover roses for a wonderful touch of English charm to your Colorado landscape.
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