Visit Our Newly Renovated Nursery Grounds!
Get an early start to your spring planting in March. We invite you to stroll our nursery grounds, filled with new shipments of trees, bushes, plants and evergreens! We've stocked our nursery with beautiful specimens grown specifically for our Colorado 
climate, and will be stocked this Spring.
It is no secret that trees and shrubs are truly the cornerstone of any great landscape design, and at Tagawa's we offer a wide assortment from which to choose from. From flowering shrubs to fruit-bearing trees, evergreens and deciduous trees, you are sure to find an exciting array of varieties, colors, shapes and sizes.
There are so many reasons to include trees and shrubs in your landscape design. Did you know that
trees keep our air supply fresh by absorbing carbon dioxide and producing oxygen?
Trees lower air temperature by evaporating water in their leaves and
they also provide shade and shelter, reducing yearly heating and cooling costs. And of course, trees provide food and shelter for wildlife.
Our staff offers unparalleled customer service
We scour the continent for the highest quality growers so you can be assured that you are getting the best plants available when you choose a tree or shrub from Tagawa Gardens. We carry container grown nursery stock that is easier to transport and also easier for you to plant. Delivery and a planting service are also available for a fee.
With an extensive knowledge of plants for Colorado, unique ideas for your landscape, and expert
plant problem diagnostics we will make your visit to our Nursery successful and enjoyable.
Nursery Team
Our knowledgeable and talented team who can all help you choose the perfect plants for your landscape includes:
Nancy
Department Supervisor- an International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist
Steve - a Certified Colorado Nursery Professional
Mike- also an ISA Certified Arborist
Susy, Bob, Tami, Rick, Bruce and Clint and Susan- our horticultural professionals
Dave-- who is always in our hearts
Nursery Updates
Great Plant Information
(Click on each link for great pictures and plant information)
Click here to learn about X-rated,
Xeriscape for our semi-arid climate!
Top
10 Tree & Shrub Questions
1.
When do I prune my lilacs?
You may prune dead, broken, crossing or diseased branches
anytime of the year. If you are pruning for shape the
best time to prune is right after the lilac flowers in
May but before July as spring flowering shrubs such as
lilacs and forsythia set their flower buds for the next
year after the beginning of July. Pruning after the beginning
of July will cut off the flower buds for the next spring.
2.
What are those large round lumps on the twigs of my Aspens?
Those lumps are "galls" or swelling of the plant tissue
caused by the Aspen Twig Gall Fly after it deposits its
eggs into your aspen twig in early spring. The galls are
ugly but they do not harm the tree and there really is
no effective control. We chalk this one up to L.W.A.A.
(Life With An Aspen).
3.
What are those small brown/gray bumps on the bark of my
Aspen?
Most likely Oyster Shell Scale, which is a small insect
encased in a hard shell that is attached to the bark.
The scale insect feeds with a piercing and sucking action
damaging your tree. Spray with a dormant oil in early
spring, before the tree leafs out, to smother the over wintering
eggs.
4.
Why do the leaves of my Aspen turn black every year?
Aspen trees are susceptible to several leaf fungus diseases.
You can help to moderate this problem by raking up your
leaves in the fall and disposing of them so that the spores
are not present in the spring to splash back up on the
tree. Also if you have severe problems every year you
may need to apply a fungicide to the leaves as they emerge
in spring and on a regular basis throughout the season.
Remember that a fungicide acts a preventative, not a cure.
Once the leaves are black it is too late to spray. As
with any chemical you need to read the directions on the
label and follow the instructions carefully.
5.
How do I plant a tree or shrub?
Dig you hole at least twice as wide as the root ball
(3-5 times is better) and 2"-4" shallower than the root
ball depth. You want the root flare, the area where
the main roots come out from the trunk of the tree,
to be 2"-4" ABOVE grade. The soil that you take out of the hole can
be amended by one third or LESS - not more - with compost.
Place the tree in the hole and remove all material around
the root ball such as wire baskets, burlap and twine,
add the amended soil half way then water. Add the remaining
soil but do not cover the root ball. Water again. Add
a 2"-3" layer of mulch, keeping the mulch away from
the bark to help
prevent crown rot. See link below for more info. http://www.greenprintdenver.org/trees/instructions.php
6.
How often should I water?
This is tricky one. The frequency and the amount of water
may vary greatly depending upon such factors as soil type
and drainage, weather conditions, time of year and plant
species. A good rule of thumb is to water the plant then
dig down about 6" outside of the root ball - not into the
root ball- take a handful of soil then squeeze your hand
together in a ball. Now open your hand. If the soil stays
together in a ball the soil is wet enough. If the soil
crumbles and does not form a ball, continue to water.
The biggest problem we see in the landscape is root rot
from over water. Remember a plant needs oxygen as much
as it needs water and the only way that a plant gets oxygen
is through its root system. Over watering is caused by
the frequency of watering not the amount. So let your
soil dry out somewhat between watering's.
7.
Should I stake my tree?
Only if the tree will be planted in a windy area. Trees
will develop a stronger trunk and root system if they
are allowed to sway. If you do decide to stake, use canvas
tree straps so as not to damage the bark. Stake loosely
and remove the stakes on the trees first birthday.
8.
What is the best time to plant trees and shrubs?
Although successful planting may be accomplished throughout
the year, especially with container plants, the best time
to plant a tree or shrub is in the early spring while
the plant is still dormant and before it leafs out.
9.
Help, something is eating my Ash tree. What is it?
A D.L.C.(Disgusting Little Creature) called the Brown
Headed Ash Sawfly which lays its eggs on your Ash tree
in May. The eggs hatch to become small greenish larvae
with little brown heads (ugh). While frequently employed,
high pitched shrieking does not actually deter this pest.
Rather a strong blast with the hose should do it. If that
fails spray with any contact insecticide.
10
How do I care for my trees and shrubs in the winter?
Rules:
Water. Make sure you winter water. Plants are
dormant in the winter - not dead. Try to water at least
once a month from November through March when the temperature
is above 40 . Water in the morning so that the water does
not puddle and freeze around the crown of plant as the
temperature cools down at night.
Mulch. Apply a 2-3 inch
layer of mulch (bark chips, chopped leaves, pine straw
etc.) in the fall. The extreme temperature fluctuations
of our winters can be very hard on the root systems of
your tree or shrub. By adding a layer a mulch you will
help keep the soil at a more even temperature preventing
root death.
Wrap. Use a crepe type commercial tree wrap
on newly planted trees to help prevent sun scald. Wrap
you tree at Thanksgiving and be sure to remove it by Easter.
30% OFF Trees and Shrubs
Sept 4,5&6 Chili Pepper Fiesta!
Visit our blog with Garden Ambassador